#Nikon film camera series
It's sophisticated 6 Element Lens design, like the Olympus XA, but unlike that, the Minox 35 Series all use zone focusing, so if you're not familar with that - better get a rangefinder- or AF-based compact camera.Īll Minox 35 Series are based onto a makolon (plastic) body, whileas the MDC and a few other special series are with aluminium and titanium coated makrolon body. The Miroxar is the better lens, compared to the Mirotar used into all the other series, also included a Skylight (UV) filter in front of the lens design. The 35 ML was sensitive for electronics fail, and much more boxy, bigger and brick-like, into contrast to the 35 EL, 35 GL, 35 GT, 35 GT-E, etc. Much more robust, hence better is the predecessor 35 GT, and GT-E Series successor (the latter one with updated, multicoated Miroxar 35/2.8 Lens)
#Nikon film camera full
Before I go, you can check out a full video review of the FE2 (by me!) right here.The 35 ML is the only one of the Minox 35 Series, prone to failure. I’m enjoying running this camera during my portrait sessions and hope to get many years of use out of this camera. If I were shooting inanimate objects, I could probably be content with the Nikon F3, but the shutter and sync speeds are just not what I need them to be. It puts a check in every box I find important to have in a film camera.
#Nikon film camera manual
The FE2 is a fast, durable, beautiful manual SLR camera that comes in at a decent price ($175-$200 for a mint copy on eBay). My thumb rests perfectly behind the open film lever allowing me to rapidly advance to the next frame and just as quickly shut the camera off. This is an intuitive approach that just works. To turn the camera off, simply shift the film advance lever towards the camera. To turn on the camera you simply flick out the film advance lever. I am a big fan of the “power switch” being on the film advance lever. Everything is within reach and running the camera is effortless. It has a metal alloy body that is small, tactile, and with ideally located controls. I understand, looks mean nothing compared to the image being produced, but I like my cameras to inspire me to pick them up, hold them, and shoot them! Sure, the Nikon F3 is visually appealing, but, in my opinion, the FE2 is an all-round more attractive camera. The FE2 is a beautiful camera! I own the silver and black model and absolutely love it. Sometimes machines that perform well don’t necessarily have the looks to match their functionality. Works like a charm and delivers consistent results that meet my expectations regarding image quality. I focus and recompose and the key to that working properly is to lock the exposure value prior to recomposing. I notice very little difference between the exposures on my Nikon FE2 and my Nikon F3 (The F3 has a 80/20 center-weighted meter). While it is a 60/40 center-weighted meter, it is still sparingly accurate. Regarding the light meter, it’s a Rockstar. It has aperture priority, intuitive exposure lock, and a solid 60/40 center-weighted metering. I need my camera body to enable me to lock the exposure settings, while in Aperture priority and know the image will be properly exposed. I want to set the camera to “A”, the aperture to f/1.4, and start shooting. I dial over and under exposures in by locking it in with the EV dial (no shutter speed shuffling required). I know I want to shoot max aperture so there is no need for me to constantly set my shutter speed. Camera review: the Nikon FE 2 - EMULSIVE Close Search for: